Carita Beach

160 km fro Jakarta, take a bus to Labuan and then an angkot to Carita (5000Rp).To Anyer, an angkot costs 7000Rp. Carita offers a more traditional and laidback sense than Anyer and a certain scruffy charm. This beach is large, and there’s some terrific swimming and some relatively priced accommodation choices. Travels to Krakatau ( opposite ) and Ujung Kulon National Park are best organised here. The hotel Sunset View is the best place for information. Heading north from Labuan port, the usual access point, Carita proper starts around 8km further on

About 2km from Carita across the rice paddies you will see the village of Sindanglaut (End of the Sea), that's the location where the large tsunami of 1883 ended its destructive run. Hutan Wisata Carita is known as a forest reserve with walks over the hills and jungle. Curug Gendang waterfall is the three-hour return hike through the reserve.

Hutan Wisata Carita

Curug Gendal Waterfall

Krakatau diving

Black Rhino - Ujung Kulon

Travel agencies including Black Rhino, close to the Sunset View hotel, can schedule diving (just like Rakata Hotel); two-dive excursions start at 750,000Rp including equipment rental. The perfect diving is in Ujung Kulon National Park, but Krakatau and Pulau Sanghiang are also of interest

Mostly everyone in town will try to peddle you a Krakatau trip. Look at your tour boat first as waves can be rough, and be sure it provides a radio on board. Black Rhino ( above ) and Rakata Hotel receive great reports; after negotiating, day trips to Krakatau start from about 1,800,000Rp. Trips to Ujung Kulon cost from US$280 per person for four days and three nights; overnight trips to Badui villages start at US$150.

Sunset View (r 85,000Rp, with air-con 150,000Rp; a) The cheapest option on this stretch, though the small, poky rooms could do with a really good scrub.

Rakata Hotel (r 90,000Rp, with air-con & TV 175,000Rp; a) Another inexpensive option, the Rakata offers reasonably priced rooms, though tariffs jump on weekends. The restaurant serves up good seafood and tours can be set up here.

Carita Baka Baka (r from 160,000Rp, family bungalows from 450,000Rp; a) It’s looking a bit weary these days, and maintenance is not what it should be, but this midrange place has an idyllic spot right on the beach and is surrounded by palm trees. Rates double at weekends. 

Mutiara Carita (www.mutiara-carita .com; r from 450,000Rp, cottages from 800,000Rp; as) Stylish rooms and thatched cottages, some with beachfront aspects, in a large, leafy complex that has a tennis court, pool tables (and, unfortunately, karaoke). The kids’ facilities and activities are excellent here.

Krakatau Surf Carita (villas from 635,000Rp; as) This place has three classes of well-constructed, attractive detached bungalows (with either two or four bedrooms) right on the beach, with a view of the crashing surf. Prices rise by 30% on weekends. Add 21% tax to room rates.

Valentine Restaurant (meals from 30,000Rp) Carita has scores of inexpensive local places that specialise in fish and seafood, but for a smarter setting head to this elegant place, opposite the Krakatau Surf, which has a long menu of meat and fish dishes. 

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